I was rudely awakened this morning with what sounded like the groans of an extremely elderly gentleman. I then realised it was me! Day #3 aches and pains. Such is life.
Tonight I find myself in the very quaint village of San Quirico D’orcia, who’s history dates back to the 12th century. Today’s 22km stage from Buonconvento was super challenging. I knew starting the VF in Tuscany would be an “interesting” exercise, given the ups and downs from valleys to peaks that litter the Tuscany landscape. And today was no different. Steep climb, steep descent, 1-2kms in the valley, steep climb…continue.
Much of today was on asphalt (quiet country roads), passing through a few small villages to break up the stage. The tasty slice of pizza at the 13km mark in Torrenieri really hit the spot. I was just looking up the history of Torrenieri, and I see that in the diary notes from the Archbishop Sigeric from Canterbury ie. it was his travel diary that lead to the formation of the Via Francigena pilgrimage trail, that the tower in Torrenieri had a pilgrim hostel operating from it around the year 1,000 AD.
The last few kms of today’s stage was a mission. I could see San Quirico D’orcia in the distance (I marked it up in the photo below). To get there – another steep drop, then a steep climb for the next 4kms. I will admit that I did grab the phone to look for a taxi option, but as none was available, I charged on as best I could. I had my good friends, Jim and Liesma, on a WhatsApp video call to keep me motivated about the challenge ahead. I first met Jim and Liesma on my first Spanish Camino adventure in 2018 and then had the privilege of walking with them again on the Camino Portuguese last year. They both know very well how challenging these pilgrimage walks can be, so it was nice to touch base with them as I climbed the last few hills into town.
Only two others out on the stage today, two cyclists…on e-bikes! I don’t know any Italian swear words, but I wish I did. I’m huffing and puffing up the hill, and they zoom past me barely peddling. I should have jammed my walking pole into their front wheels 😊
My accommodation in San Quirico D’orcia is lovely. Whilst I didn’t appreciate the four flights of steps to get up to the apartment after such a gruelling hike, the host (Valentina) has prepared an array of breakfast goodies (like croissants etc) for the morning plus left me a pack of delicious Tuscan biscuits as a welcome gift. Tomorrow is a rest day, and I need it. I was speaking to Jim, Liesma and (soon to be a VF pilgrim next week) Yvonne about maybe taking an extra rest day and skipping a stage. I think I have already talk myself into that. I will have a look around San Quirico D’orcia tomorrow at some point.
Ending off my day with a Ichnusa lemon radler beer brewed in Sardinia. I have always liked a radler-type beer – moreso lime as opposed to lemon – but that said, these lemon ones are going down very, very well 🙂
So more from me in a few day’s time.
A very dry Tuscany
